Saab’s show at the Palais de Tokyo opened with Deva Cassel in a khaki pencil skirt and silk blouse, immediately signalling departure from his usual spectacle. His line favoured trench coats in animal prints, wide-leg organza denim trousers, Prince of Wales tailored separates and dip-dyed skirts that mimic denim — all in service of dressing a multifaceted modern woman. He explained backstage that he aimed to “speak of a courageous woman,” a mantra that guided him toward pieces suited for real-world transitions between work and evening. What remained unmistakable, however, was Saab’s signature sensuality: draped chiffon, asymmetric cuts, and polished tailoring still inhabited the collection.
In contrast, Hobeika’s presentation emphasised restraint and softness. He and his Co-Creative Director son, Jad, delivered gowns in pale sequins, sheer beaded fabrics, corseted bodices and pleated skirts. The palette veered toward neutral tones like oat, blush and caramel, and silhouettes flowed with minimal structural interruption. One standout was a strapless dress with a pleated skirt evoking a poised coolness reminiscent of 1990s elegance. His approach allowed couture craftsmanship to breathe rather than dominate.
These shifts by both couturiers reflect larger industry currents emerging at Paris Fashion Week. Designers are increasingly balancing creative flair with wearability, amid a climate in which buyers and editors demand coherence, market readiness and a distinct voice. As noted by observers, the Spring/Summer 2026 calendar featured a surge in creative director debuts, and the pressure to distinguish oneself has only intensified.
Saab’s evolution is particularly bold given his heritage as a red-carpet favourite. His embrace of separates signals a willingness to expand his narrative beyond gala glamour. Vogue’s coverage echoes this reading, observing that his silhouettes are less fairy-tale fantasy and more “pragmatic glamour” for day and night. Meanwhile, Hobeika’s approach retains the refined femininity his clientele expect, while lightening its visual weight and offering a softer, more accessible aesthetic.
Front-row presence reinforced the narrative of cross-regional influence and audience expansion. Saudi influencer Nojoud Al-Rumaihi attended both Saab’s and Hobeika’s shows, among others, livestreaming backstage moments and bridging Middle Eastern interest with European global fashion. Also, Saab’s global ambitions were underscored by announcements of new boutique openings in the US.
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